replacing leaking Harley-Davidson fuel line and check valve quick disconnect o-rings (2023)

Introduction

Here's a quick video of what I did to replace the fuel tank check valve quick disconnect o-rings on my fuel injected 2012 Harley Dyna Wide glide. It should be similar on 2000 and newer fuel injected Harley's. I used the Fuel Tool rebuild kits. One kit for the hose and one for the check valve. I recommend not using the lower oring that comes with the check valve kit. All of the other orings fit fine. Instead use a 10mm x 14mm x 2mm for the lower oring, the one in the kit is slightly undersized and leaked for me. From what the forums say, the upper should be ID .299", thickness .103", OD .505", but for this one I just used what was in the kit. I also used dental picks for removal and a 9/32 socket as a tool to push in the parts. From what ive read the hose oring is .37" OD x .19" ID .09" thickness, which is roughly the same as a 3/8" OD x 3/16" ID. For the hose oring I just used what was in the kit. Fuel Tool sells a tool for rebuilding it but it is $100. I bought the 2 rebuild kits from J&PCycles website for about $30 total. The Fuel Tool part numbers are MC300 for the check valve and MC700 for the fuel line.
On an after thought, the resistance that I was feeling may be that the valve needs to be aligned to get it to pop in. If you run into the same problem you may just need to rotate the valve part until its aligned and its should all pop right in using the socket. I hope this video helps someone. Good luck!

Video

Okay, so I bought these two kits from uh fuel tool, uh, I think I actually got it through amazon, but uh, these kits here.

Uh.

This one here is for the check valve that's on the tank.

This one's for the o-rings for the fuel line.

This one fit fine the one for the check valve on the tank, the everything was good on it, except for the lower o-ring that's.

The one that keeps it from leaking outside of the uh, the hoses and check valve that one did not fit correctly.

Uh, it went in, but it still leaked.

So I was reading a lot online and there's a harley part number here, but I didn't end up using it.

The size of the harley part number is actually the same from what I've been reading as a 10 millimeter by 14 millimeter by two millimeter.

Uh, I think the one that they sent in this kit is probably 9 16 by 7, 16 by 16 inch and uh that one I put it in and it leaked.

So go ahead and go to uh, go to autozone that's where I found it.

Uh, it comes in this kit here, metric o-rings.

And it was the exact size the 10 millimeter 14 by two.

Okay.

So what I did is I took off the seat.

First took apart the console.

These bolts here unplug that to disconnect the fuel pump power.

And you want to try and crank it over it's going to depressurize this line here allow you to disconnect it.

And then all you're going to do is well it's going to it might start.

It might not, but try it a few times if it does start let it run for a second until it dies.

So it'll depressurize this line and you lift up on the collar here.

And now you'll be able to disconnect it without worrying about any pressure in there.

So after I did that I went ahead and uh, siphoned as much out of the tank as I could drained out whatever fuel I could and then, um, went ahead and disconnected.

The battery and started, uh, pulling out the uh o-rings and the parts inside here.

So one thing I use to get these, uh, o-rings removed and help to replace them is just these dental picks helps putting everything back in a lot easier in uh, removing it too.

Okay.

So you want to stack them in this order here, the fat end of the spring, the valve the larger fat o-ring and a larger diameter at the bottom.

So you just kind of stack them in that order.

And I found that a uh, 9 30 seconds, quarter inch, drive socket.

Uh is the same diameter as the end of your fuel line.

So that you can use instead of uh use that as a tool to slide it in there.

I also sprayed a little bit of the wd-40 inside to make it a little easier.

So basically you want to stack it like this with the larger end of the spring in then the valve, and then the fat o-ring, you put it in the socket, and then put it up inside the uh check valve.

So once I get it up, there, you'll, see, there's, uh, if you can see this, but there's, two, two slots for the o-ring up in there kind of hard to see, but uh, you want the fat o-ring to be up at the very top.

I could probably see it there now, um.

So you got to pull up on the collar when you install it.

And at first, you might have a hard time using the socket.

So I just kind of use this to probe something with a blunt end.

You don't want to cut the o-ring and just kind of feed it around.

And then use a socket to push it in the rest of the way, and it pops right in.

So when you go to put this thing in uh, you're going to feel some resistance, um, when you put it up in there, you gotta get this.

Uh centerpiece here.

You gotta push up on it and it'll pop in place.

You compress the spring.

Okay, um after that.

Then you can put in the socket and then try and feed in the uh feet in the o-ring, but you're gonna feel a lot of resistance until you get that chrome piece, the valve pushed up a little further.

Okay.

So, um, that's.

What it looks like when you get the valve in and the upper o-ring and the lower o-ring.

So to get the lower o-ring in the skinnier one, I used this head of a nail and a little tedious, but I kind of worked around around the inside of that to get to sit in the groove like that.

Okay.

So this is the uh hose side, that's how it goes in.

So I just picked out all the guts.

I actually bought this kit, because I had lost the little valve that fell out rolled along the floor, and I lost it.

But um.

So you just kind of feed it in in that order.

Okay.

So this is what it looks like when it's in installed, uh.

So it actually tells you here in this little paper that comes with the kit to install it.

You, uh, rotate it into like a figure eight twist it with your thumb.

And then, uh, I just pushed in on the on.

The valve got one side in with it shaped like a figure eight and just kind of worked it around.

And eventually you get it in there.

So after you get that together, uh, just go ahead and connect it and reconnect it, uh, disconnect it and just cycle it.

A few times make sure everything's good and crank her up and should be good to go.

Good luck.